Costume Research: Books

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The 85 patterns and 91 fashion plates in this book were reproduced from rare originals of the 1905 American Garment Cutter Instruction and Diagram Book and 1907 1909 issues of the quarterly American Modiste. These publications were used by both professional dressmakers and amateurs. They offered sophisticated fashions, artistic illustrations, fashion columns describing the latest styles, and pattern instructions. They also provided the ability to create patterns for the wearer's individual measurements with the American System of Cutting. Using special rulers that eliminated arithmetic, even untrained designers could enlarge pattern diagrams to the correct size. A full set of printed rulers and detailed instructions are provided for readers who wish to use the American System. Also included are instructions for enlarging the patterns by projection, plus carefully selected sections from a 1907 sewing manual, The Complete Dressmaker.

Ms. Grimble says, "This is a companion volume to my book The Edwardian Modiste, which contains patterns from 1905 through 1909. It continues my work of making early pattern-drafting systems widely available for modern use. Dozens of different systems were patented in the 19th and early 20th centuries. But most had the same goal, which was to make it easy for sewers to accurately draft patterns to an individual's body measurements. The system used for The Voice of Fashion requires special rulers, whose units are not inches. We reconstructed them from period information and provided them with the book. They work quite well. You don't need any draft experience, you don't have to do arithmetic, and the patterns fit. However, you wish you can project the patterns instead".

The dressmaker's patterns for the more than 50 different garments included in this volume first appeared in the 1890s in issues of the quarterly The Voice of Fashion. Most of the patterns are for stylish daywear for women, but there are house dresses and nightwear as well, along with a selection of suits and dresses for young boys and girls and several garments for men. Reproduced from rare original issues of The Voice of Fashion, these patterns show that although most ladies' fashions of the 1890s were designed to conceal the body behind high necks, long sleeves, and full, floor-length skirts, a lively interest in revealing the female figure persisted. Elegant hand craftsmanship and the luxuriant draping of rich fabric further enhanced this statuesque idealization of femininity. An informational general introduction to dressmaker's patterns and concise instructions for using them precede this lively parade of fin-de-siècle fashions. Readers will also find over 575 patterns and illustrations detailing the various garments, with individual instructions for making them. Costume enthusiasts interested in re-creating exact copies of vintage clothing will find this book an indispensable guide; indeed, anyone interested in the history of fashion and costume will welcome this fascinating reference to late Victorian dressmaking.

Over 100 full-page, royalty-free illustrations document what well-dressed American men wore in early 1900s: checked and striped business suits, sporty knickers and jackets, elegant formal wear, long fur-trimmed coats, more. Includes variety of accessories: canes, gloves, spats.

Fashion has always been a cultivating force.  And during the 19th century--a time of great change--fashion was a powerful component in the development of American society.  Through dress, average individuals could step beyond class divisions and venture into the world of the elite and privileged.  Beginning in 1840, with the advent of the daguerreotype, that moment could be captured for a lifetime. In Dressed for the Photographer, Joan Severa gives a visual analysis of the dress of middle-class Americans from the mid-to-late 19th century.  Using images and writings, she shows how even economically disadvantaged Americans could wear styles within a year or so of current fashion.  This desire for fashion equality demonstrates that the possession of culture was more important than wealth or position in the community. Arranging the photographs by decades, Severa examines the material culture, expectations, and socioeconomic conditions that affected the clothing choices depicted.  Her depth of knowledge regarding apparel allows her to date the images with a high degree of accuracy and to point out significant details that would elude most observers.  The 272 photographs included in this volume show nearly the full range of stylistic details introduced during this period.  Each photograph is accompanied with a commentary in which these details are fully explored.  In presenting a broad overview of common fashion, Severa gathers letters and diaries as well as photographs from various sources across the United States.  She provides graphic evidence that ordinary Americans, when dressed in their finest attire, appeared very much the same as their wealthier neighbors.  But upon closer examination, these photographs often reveal inconsistencies that betray the actual economic status of the sitter. These fascinating photographs coupled with Severa's insights offer an added dimension to our understanding of 19th century Americans.  Intended as an aid in dating costumes and photographs and as a guide for period costume replication, Dressed for the Photographer provides extensive information for understanding the social history and material culture of this period.  It will be of interest to general readers as well as to social historians and those interested in fashion, costume, and material culture studies.